Fai Bistes, Vigo

Happens every holiday, I get sucked into this idea that instead of just being off work and relaxing, that I should go somewhere….because that’s what you’re supposed to do. Don’t let anybody claim that travel makes you interesting…50 times out of 100 it does the oposite, people who go on about travel and how much they love travelling are boring. It’s as boring as public school tory voters doing banter and thinking they’re comedy geniouses. No offense to people who like travelling or people who like bants. But the assumption that travel makes you interesting is a bit like the assumption that being gay automatically makes you good at interior design.
What holiday travel means is, you spend a long time going from A to spend time in B that you don’t know and you don’t spend time in your own bed, but pay to sleep in a more uncomfortable bed in B. Then you get home and you’re exhausted. Thank fuck there’s another holiday coming up in a few months..I won’t fall into this trap I hope

Anyway, if you don’t know Vigo…it’s in the far north of Spain, in Galicia. The weather is a bit like Ireland and the countryside around it is a bit like Ireland if you had never been to ireland and were imagining it to be a really beautiful country. I went to Vigo. It’s nice.


I whatsapped a friend i rarely see, who had recently been appearing in a play in vigo and is originally from galicia, to get suggestions of where to go (ie. where to eat and drink)…she told me to eat in Fai Bistes. So I did.
The menu is mainly meat on the brasa (charcole grilled) and the fish limited to roast bacalao or red Tuna. I chose the roast bacalao. and a bottle of local white wine. Blimey!

I lived in Lisbon for nearly 5 years, so i know a little bit about bacalao…and i must tell you, this was the best bacalao i’ve ever had. Roast loin of bacalao on top of sliced potatoes and courgette, topped with camorelised onion with olives. Wine wasn’t bad either. I even had pudding…Grandmother’s tart
Not so easy to find the restaurant if you don’t know where you’re going….obviously. From the port use the ugly modern shopping centre to go up towards and across to Mercado Pedra (you can walk down from here to a row of restaurants with terrasas who sell oysters outside), do a right just after Santa Maria church (maybe is a cathedrel, dunno) and walk along Rua Real, Fai Bistes is on the left and the enterence a further left.
Another restaurant close by I’ll recommend is El Capitan…i had a nice bit of Mero here (grooper in english…but you might has well go with Mero) and the best cheesecake i’ve ever had in my life. people there were all eating Cozido Gallego…which looked as aweful and exactly the same as Cozido Madrileño…so must be a good place for Cozido, if that floats your (frankly, weird) boat. Another place i’d recommend is a great bar nearby called Taberna A Mina. That’s it, your roving reporter signing out